Lazy Zamalek Day

Given that my ankles are still threatening to give up and detach from the rest of my body, I didn't go on a grand adventure in Cairo today. I did, however, hang out in Zamalek and eat like a starving person. The dig food at Anafora is not actually bad, but it is repetitive and extremely salty. Every meal is guaranteed to include rice, salty white cheese, bread, tomatoes, cucumbers, and shredded carrots. Breakfast is tasty, but also always the same: cheese, bread, boiled eggs, yogurt, a little fruit. We are all relieved to eat "real food" on our days off in Cairo. Last night I dragged Dan to Mezza Luna, which is a cozy little western-style restaurant that serves all kinds of pasta. I was really in the mood for carbs and cheese, so dinner last night really hit the spot. Check out our pan-fried halloumi:



I have also made a few trips to the juice bar, because fruit juice is quickly becoming my favorite Cairo treat. In addition to strawberry, which is probably still my favorite, I have been enjoying banana and fresh-squeezed orange juice. Every time I see hanging fruit I am tempted to make a detour because I know something delicious is nearby. The juice guys nearest me have started to recognize me, and today the old cashier gestured for me to sit in a plastic chair when I dropped in. The younger man who prepped my banana juice in the blender saved the last few extra mouthfuls until I had drained my glass, then gave me a mini-refill. They must have sensed that it would make me a customer for life!



Later in the day, I will be meeting up with friends for lunch at another Zamalek favorite, La Bodega, which is a fancy-ish restaurant where I particularly enjoy the seafood soup. After that, we're going to take a trip to Mandarine Koueider, the dessert shop that makes my favorite ice cream of all time. I desperately hope they have the lemon flavor today because it tastes so fresh.

There is a lot to eat around here, but I would be lying if I called this weekend an exotic Cairo experience. Zamalek, the island we stay on, is packed with tourists and expats. Many of the shops and restaurants cater to westerners, and you are more likely to find people who speak enough English to figure out what you need and help you to get it. I should also note that while the food here is inexpensive for me thanks to favorable exchange rates, it is grossly expensive for your average Cairo resident. On the bus back from site this week, my friend Mohammed commented that 33 EGP can feed ten people a reasonably good meal, but that's what I dropped on my own dinner last night. The restaurants on Zamalek are largely populated by foreign visitors and very wealthy Egyptians. If you want a more "authentic" experience, go for the street food. Kushari and treats from the juice bar are more normal for Cairo and the prices are relatively uniform throughout the city.

That said, I am really enjoying my day off. It's turned into a real day of rest, and by 4:00 AM tomorrow I'll be dragging myself out of bed and preparing for another long, hot desert day.

Maybe I also want McDonald's on the way home to Anafora.